Available Puppies


          PUPPIES ARE HERE!



    We have puppies that will be ready the first week of November 2017.    As always, parents are fully health tested including OFA rated hips and elbows, CAER (was CERF) eye exam clear, HSF4, prcd-PRA and CEA clear,  and MDR1 tested.   Accepting deposits now for companion puppies, we still have plenty of openings due to cancellations on our deposit list.   Show prospects sold on co-ownership, availability will be limited. These pups should have the drive and biddability to do almost anything!  We use PUPPY CULTURE methods when raising our puppies.   Available to approved homes only, no shipping.   Call 260-445-8235 or email [email protected] for more info and photos. Stay tuned for updates! 


   We currently have available a red merle boy, 2 black tri girls and 1 red tri girl.  In the photos, the top  row is black tri girl Star, second  row is black tri girl Echo, third row is red tri girl Gale, fourth row is red merle boy Comet.



Black tri girl Star is smaller and very stocky in build, with an adorable head and expression. She's outgoing and playful but also likes to be held.


Black tri girl Echo is a bigger girl in her litter, with a sturdy build. She seems medium energy so far, and likes to be held.  She has a full collar and will have rich copper.



Little red tri girl Gale is finer boned and is often on the go. She comes up for attention and then is off again, looking for adventure.  She has a full collar and nice rich color


Big red merle boy Comet is a clown, and may be a very big, sturdy built adult.  He's the biggest pup and has been all along.    





 



 New litter born Sept 2017, ready Nov 2017

Scroll down to see info regarding pups

 

Puppy Culture DVD

 

    ******* IMPORTANT!!  There is a lot of information on this page, but I urge you to take the time to read it before contacting me to buy one of my puppies.  It may answer some of the questions you have, as well as give you some insight into my philosophies on breeding and care of the dogs.  It can also help you feel comfortable with your choice of this breed and how well it may fit your lifestyle.

     Also, it should be noted I don't breed just to fill the market with puppies to sell.  I plan each breeding with the goal of keeping the good qualities of the parents, and improving any faults.  It takes a lot of time and resources to raise puppies the right way.  Because of these things, I don't have puppies available at all times and those who want a puppy from me may have to wait a while.  I feel our puppies are more than worth the wait!  **********

 

     If you contact me regarding a puppy, please give me some information on your lifestyle and experience with the breed, and what your goals for the puppy may be, such as showing, agility, or companionship.  I strive to find the best homes for my puppies and having more information on a potential new owner helps me in that mission.  Please don't be offended at all the questions I may ask of you. I am trying to build a line of communication with a person whom I need to trust with the life of one of  my puppies.

    One thing I like to tell anyone looking for a new puppy, is if it is at all possible, visit the breeder and meet the parents, even before the pups arrive or you decide to buy a pup from that breeder.  This can help you be sure of your choice of the breeder and the bloodlines. You want to make sure the breeder you choose is knowledgeable and committed to making sure the puppies get off to a great start, and to being available after the sale.  And,  there is a lot of variation in Aussies and it's a good idea to get a feel for the bloodlines of the family of Aussies you are considering.  A lot of how your pup will turn out as an adult will be traits he or she has inherited from the parents, so it pays to do a little research before choosing the first cute face you see.  Also, look beyond just color/markings/sex, into the temperaments common in the bloodlines.  THAT is more important than anything as that is what you live with.  A "pretty" looking dog with a bad temperament isn't going to be an ideal companion.  If you can't visit in person, ask many detailed questions and for referrals from past buyers.   This will help you know you are dealing with a reputable breeder who has quality dogs.  This is especially true if you are new to the breed and choosing a good breeder and pup.

    Also, unless it is discussed and agreed upon, all puppies will have an agreement to be spayed or neutered by 18 months of age.   I don't sell puppies for casual breeding, but if sold to breeders, it is only to qualified and experienced home based hobby breeders.   I strive find homes for my pups where they will be a full time family members more than anything.  I don't sell to large breeder operations or places where the dogs live in kennels or outside all or most of the time, as it is against my philosophy for giving my dogs the kind of life I want them to have.   Aussies crave human contact on an ongoing, daily basis.  I always reserve the right to refuse the sale of a pup or dog if I don't feel it will be in the best interests of that animal. I don't want to hurt peoples' feelings but am the only voice my dogs have in choosing the right home for them. 

 

Deposit Information:  If a deposit is accepted on an unborn litter that deposit holds your place on an upcoming litter.  It is not a guarantee a puppy will be available or will be sold to the buyer. Because I spend an incredible amount of time with my puppies, I know them very well.  I work to match each puppy with the right owner as far as lifestyle and plans/goals for the puppy.    I DO NOT TAKE DEPOSITS FOR EYE COLOR! I can take requests for coat color but of course the right puppy may not be the color you hope for, and it's more important to get the best match than a certain color. If a deposit is accepted on a specific puppy currently available, it holds that puppy until he or she is ready to be picked up.  If at any point we feel the puppy is not a good match for the buyer for reasons of temperament or structure (in regards to a show puppy), we will offer a different puppy or a refund.   If the buyer has placed a deposit on a specific puppy to hold it from other buyers, and simply changes his or her mind, that deposit is not refundable.  Deposits are non refundable other than situations where we just don't have a puppy for you.   Please be aware of these terms before agreeing to place a deposit on one of our puppies.  We work very hard to ensure you get the right puppy for your goals but at the same time want to have the right to refuse a sale if we feel it isn't in the best interest of the puppy and/or the buyer.   An example would be the puppy is too high energy  or intensity for a family who needs a calmer one, or a puppy going to a show home develops a fault that may hinder it's ability to be competitive in conformation shows.  Once we have a number of deposits on an upcoming litter, we stop taking more so start having to turn away prospective buyers.  A deposit is for a person who really is committed to getting a puppy from us.   We also only take a deposit after doing a basic interview and making sure the prospective buyer is on the same page as us as far as our policies for dog care, quality of life and such. 

  

   

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   WE DON'T SHIP OUR PUPPIES, SO BUYERS NEED TO BE ABLE TO COME AND PICK UP IN PERSON

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OUR PUPPIES

    Our pups are born inside and handled daily.  We use PUPPY CULTURE methods and encourage you to continue this once you get your puppy.  They will be AKC or AKC/ASCA registerable, and will have their first puppy vaccinations, been wormed several times, and started on Interceptor for heartworm prevention.   They will also come with premium food, toys, photos of the parents and the pups since birth, and lots of information on the breed, copies of the parents health test results, and general puppy care information.   They have undergone the Bio Sensor program and are being handled daily, getting used to being held on their backs, having their nails done, ears and mouths examined, and will be started on grooming training.  They will go for several car rides and meet other dogs and people.  I take them for walks around the property, so they learn to follow me.  We evaluate temperament and structure on an ongoing basis as the pups develop.  They should be super puppies for companionship and other activities new owners may want to pursue.     Puppies sold as pets (spayed or neutered) with limited registration will be eligible for all AKC activities but for conformation shows, and their pups would not be eligible for registration. Pups sold as pets will be required by contract to be spayed or neutered once mature.  These pups are top quality just like puppies sold as show potential, and will make great companions, or agility, obedience or rally partners.   All puppies are sold with a contract. 

 

    Please take note I don't sell puppies for breeding only.  Any sold with full registration will go to actual show homes, and on co-ownership until championship is completed and all health testing is done. We do so to preserve good genetics in this breed and to be a good steward of the breed.

   After you get your puppy, I urge to to continue to read the pages on this site, as you will find a lot of important information on puppy health care, feeding, training and socializing and much more.  Reading through the pages even before you get a puppy is great too, as you will have some of the information ahead to time to more properly plan for your new addition, and to help him or her settle in more quickly.

     Whether you are looking for an Aussies for a companion for even for sure, it pays to choose carefully and get the best you can!


      As with all my puppies, I strongly recommend prospective owners sign up for a reward based puppy training class, both for socializing and to build the bond of trust between owner and puppy.  So much of how an Aussie turns out depends on how it is raised, combined with starting with a puppy with a solid genetic temperament.

 

 

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     I was talking with someone about temperament tests and puppies, and had this thought: "I think a temperament test should more accurately be called an aptitude test as it shows traits the pup has so far, and can show areas to work on."

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       Multi Group Placing, Multi Group Winning ASCA Ch, AKC RBIS Silver GCH X'Sells Kiss-N-Tell  aka "Wink"
 
 

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FOR OTHER DOGS OR PUPS, CHECK

OUT AVAILABLE DOGS PAGE

 

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                             Below are pictures of  past puppies having fun

 

 

    Puppy pictures above are for examples only

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      Below are some photos of our Puppy Adventure Box.  It is a nice tool to help socialize them a wide variety of sounds, textures and items, not to mention it is fun for puppies to play in and humans to watch puppies playing. 

 

 

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CHECK OUT THE PUPPY PHOTO PAGES FOR EXAMPLES OF OUR PAST PUPPIES

 

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Puppy information and philosophy


     Deciding to add a dog to the family is a big decision, and not one to be taken lightly.  A dog is a huge emotional investment, not to mention one of time and money.  The decision to add one to your life should be carefully considered.   The dog you choose could be in your life for the next 15 years. This is not an area to "bargain shop" nor to make an impulse buy.


   Our puppies come with normal  written health guarantees on hips and eyes and epilepsy.  Show prospects come with a guarantee against any disqualifying faults such as incorrect bites or retained testicles.


    I carefully chose the dogs in any planned breeding to avoid health issues and other problems.  I study pedigrees and talk to as many people familiar with the lines as I can, before finalizing a breeding plan.  I put a great deal of thought and consideration into all my decisions.

    Any litter I have is being bred for me first.  The pedigrees and parents chosen are to produce a pup to keep for me to keep for my own program.  As it is best to evaluate puppies' structure at 7- 8 weeks of age, I may not decide who I'm keeping until then or even much later.  This means that I may be holding a couple pups back for myself until then.  Usually there are puppies I can identify as something I either don't want or don't need  for my  program so I can and will let buyers commit on those.  (For example I may plan to keep a girl so all boys are available, and some girls will be too.)

   I am a small home based breeder and I enjoy living with my dogs first and foremost.  I don't like to call myself a hobby breeder as this is far more than that to me. The dogs are my passion!  My dogs are my pets first and live in my home, and spend much of their days playing in our huge fenced yard.  They accompany me on errands and other outings for socializing and just to give them fun things to do.  Puppies are whelped inside my home and are in later in a covered pen right outside the door for play and exercise (after they're  4 weeks old).   I begin housebreaking by 4-5 weeks of age but they will need to continue this once they move to their new homes.  They are taken outside for potty breaks at least 6 times a day in bad weather when they cannot be outside to play.   I don't paper train them or keep them in a small area, as that will make it much harder to really housebreak them later.  I keep their area totally free of waste or odor so they retain their natural urge to stay clean.  They will be accustomed to regular household noises and pets, and people coming and going.  Since they are raised in my home they get handled by everyone so they are well socialized, as well as used to normal household activities.

   Aussies temperaments can range from high drive to fairly calm, and from silly to serious, from outgoing and friendly to quite protective or reserved with strangers.  My dogs love to play and are very active (fetching a ball being our favorite), but they can "turn it off"  as well as on. Each Aussie will have his or her own unique personality but most fall within a range of what is seen in the parents.  It is very important to me to produce dogs that are enjoyable to live with, easy to train, intelligent, with good social skills as well as being structurally sound and good examples of their breed.  I am constantly evaluating these things in any dog I consider breeding.

   All pet/companion puppies are sold with limited registration  and are to be spayed or neutered upon maturity.  Not every puppy has the features to be a show dog, but every puppy has the potential be a great companion.  I usually allow a  person looking for a show dog to have first opportunity with the puppies that would be good show prospects.  So I may also hold a show potential pup or two back for a show buyer.  Usually the difference between a show prospect and a pet quality pup will be something minor like a little too much white on the ear or face, or a big dilute spot on a merle, something like ear set or topline, or other things most people will not even notice unless it's pointed out to them.  So it's not like a "pet" puppy is somehow inferior, and I often sell puppies who could be shown to families who just want them as a pet, if there is no show home available for that puppy.   As much as possible I will try to let people choose on a first come, first serve basis, once a buyer is approved. I  get to know my pups quite well and can see subtle differences in personality traits.  I will also make that information known to people choosing pups, so we can work together to help you get the best pup for your goals and lifestyle.  I encourage any buyer who can to spend at least a few hours with the puppies as they choose their new family member.

    I will take a deposit to hold your place in line to choose a pup, or a specific pup once I know what is available.  If there is not a puppy for you (sex/color desired), I will refund it or move it to the next litter, your choice.  I will not refund a deposit because the puppy isn't marked like you want it or it doesn't have blue eyes, or you simply changed your mind.  I don't take deposits for eye color. There can be no guarantees on the superficial things on puppies in any litter and such things should be last on the list of why a specific puppy is chosen.   Priority should be placed on how well the puppy's personality and temperament fits with your family and lifestyle, how a puppy was raised and what it's parents are like, as pups tend to fall within a range of what their parents are like in looks, temperament and health. 

   If you have any questions that I didn't address or you'd like to discuss further, please feel free to contact me, I'd love to talk with you about my Aussies.

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            VISITING BREEDERS


      I wanted to write up a little piece for people wanting to visit breeders and meet their dogs and puppies.  First of all, remember most breeders are normal family people, and do have a life outside the dogs.  Many work full time in addition to spending many hours a week working with the dogs. Some have children, and other family obligations.  That means their time is as precious and valuable as it is to anyone.  So when you want to come visit, plan to set a time and keep it.  Don't arrive really early or really late, and if you can't make it on time, let the breeder know as soon as possible.  While they are glad to have you visit, many have rearranged their schedule to accommodate you.  They are proud to show their dogs and share their love of the breed, and their knowledge, but they don't sit around all day hoping someone will just drop in. Ha ha!    So please, be considerate and understanding of breeders and their time. 


  I would like to get to know a prospective buyer before inviting that person to come visit.  I don't have a facility, I have my own home and just like most people, I value my security. I want to get an idea what the person is looking for and if I may have the right puppy for them.   I don't allow visitors when puppies are really young, for the safety and health of the pups.  Please don't be offended if you call and I don't allow you to just drop by that day, especially if I have young pups.  I may also have other plans.   I DO want to allow people to visit and meet us and the dogs, and to get to know them, but will set up a time that works with our schedules.   I plan my day and week around scheduled visits.

 

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   I wanted to add to this page with an entry from a blog belonging to the friend of a friend.  She has Canaan dogs and Collies and lives in Israel. It so sums up what a good breeder goes through when raising a litter of puppies.  I couldn't have said it better myself!!!  I included the link to her blog below that.


 VALUE

 

      "I am fed up with the people who inquire about puppies or dogs and then tell me, ?Oh no, I would never pay money for a DOG!?


     My dogs are priceless.  There is no way that I could set a value on them.  How can you calculate the value of a friend and companion, someone who always greets me with joy when I come home, that is always ready to go anywhere with me no matter what time it is or how the weather may be.  Someone who never complains that I haven?t been paying enough attention, or that I don?t provide a high enough standard of living.  Someone who makes me laugh, even when I was not in a laughing mood. And who listens to every word that I say without ever a bad word.


     My puppies are no less precious to me, but, to my sorrow, I can?t keep them all, some of them have to go to new homes.


      I am not, however, selling puppies.  I am selling the enormous amount of care, learning, and judgement involved in deciding who are to be the parents of the litter. I am selling the health examinations, genetic tests, and temperament tests to be sure that the parents are the best I can possibly find.  I am selling the top quality food and other care the mother has received all her life to put her in optimum condition for having these puppies, the special room I built so that bitches could have their puppies comfortably in the house, close to me but with enough privacy to be able to remain calm and raise happy placid puppies. I am selling all the devoted care the puppies get from the day they are born, the premium food when they start to eat, the exams to make sure they are completely healthy and strong, the vaccinations to keep them that way, the microchip so that they will never get lost, the petrol it costs when I start driving them around in the car to introduce them to new people, places, and experiences when they are old enough, so that they will easily fit into their new homes without stress and will understand that the world out there is a fun place with wonderful and exciting things happening, and many friendly people that like to pet little dogs. 


     Whenever a puppy leaves here, it leaves a hole in my heart.  I watch every puppy as it grows and develops to the age when it can leave it?s mother for a  new home with the feeling that, maybe, this one should stay here.  I know that life here is the best but I can?t keep them all, and it is satisfying to have the right people come for each particular puppy, where I feel confident that they will be loved and cared for and bring happiness and companionship and live a long life together.  But I still miss each one when it goes, and the money I get is far from a fair exchange.


     How can I believe that someone who is not willing to pay for the privilege of having one of these priceless puppies will then be willing to spend what is necessary to give it the best possible life ? the best food, veterinary care, and living conditions ? which do not come for free.


     I do not wish these people ill.  I hope that their cheap dog will live a long and happy life and bring them much joy.  But I believe that you get the value that you paid for, and that you have to pay for value.  My dogs have value that is beyond anything that could be calculated in money, but to enjoy that value, I pay what is necessary to ensure that quality.  What you pay me for one of my puppies is infinitely less than the true value of the puppy, but it certainly helps to make sure that you get the value that will make the next fifteen or so years of companionship a joy."

    http://myrnash.blogspot.com/2011/03/value.html

 

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 I would also suggest you take the time to read the info on the website below before making your final decision to add an Australian Shepherd to the family.

http://www.k9station.com/dont_buy.htm 

 

   If you are getting a puppy from me, I urge you to read the pages "Bringing  Puppy Home", "Puppy Health Care", "Feeding Your Aussie" and "Socializing Your Aussie."  The other pages are good too but these will have information you need right away or even before you bring your puppy home.  Finding a good vet before you get your puppy is also recommended, so you can start a good doctor/client relationship with your new puppy.   The "Choosing a Breeder" page will give you some insight into what to look for in a good breeder.  After you get your puppy, here is a GREAT article about what to expect as he matures, and some steps you can take to help him become a fantastic adult:

http://www.k9station.com/articles/raisinganaussie.htm

 

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    A Word about Dewclaws

   I don't have my pups' front dewclaws removed, haven't for years.  (Rear dewclaws are vestigial and should be removed.)  I figured it is worth explaining to prospective buyers WHY having front dewclaws is important for a dog.   This article by Chris Zink, DVM, PhD, DAVCSMR says it well:

Chris Zink Dewclaw Article

 or


http://www.caninesports.com/uploads/1/5/3/1/15319800/dewclawexplanation.pdf

 

  Dogs use that front dewclaw to help with stability when they run. In an active breed such as an Aussie this is very important.  Dogs who have had their front dewclaws removed are at far higher risk of wrist injuries.   Please, leave those dewclaws on!

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     A word about Aussies and Fenced Yards:

   I get people asking about whether or not an Aussie needs a fenced yard.  I strongly suggest that they do.  I know some people use the invisible or underground type fences, but in my years in dogs I have heard of way too many cases where such fences have failed, sometimes with fatal consequences when the dog is hit by a car and killed.  Sometimes they make dogs afraid of the yard (thinking going out in the yard makes them get shocked.)  But mostly they do nothing to protect your dog from other people or animals, and may allow an aggressive dog in your hard to hurt your Aussie.  Since the fence can fail due to mechanical problems, or the dog simply may tolerate the shock so it can go out of the fence, it just isn't a safe way to contain a dog. I am not a fan of tie out cables and even less so of chains, but feel it's still safer than an invisible fence or no type of restraint. It only takes a second for an accident to happen and your dog could pay with it's life.  So if at all possible make sure you have a safe and secure fenced area for your Aussie!

     Update:  Since I first wrote this about invisible fences, I know of a few more Aussies who were killed while being "contained" with this system. PLEASE, PLEASE DO NOT RELY ON UNDERGROUND FENCES TO PROTECT YOUR AUSSIE'S LIFE!  Too many have died as a result.

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  Here is a great site with important information about vaccines.  I highly recommend this for all pet owners!

 http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/blog/vaccine-articles/

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CONTACT ME AT [email protected]  or call 260-445-8235. 

My cell plan does not include calls out of the US so I can't return those.  Email works best from out of the US, if you don't catch me on the phone.

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Jesus said to him, "I am the way, and the truth, and the life; no one comes to the Father, but through Me."
    John 14:6

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     "Cast your cares on the Lord and He will sustain you; He will never let the righteous fall."

  Psalm 55:22

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